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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.